POST-TRANSPLANT CARE OF SHADE AND FLOWERING TREES

Barbara J. Bromley, Horticulturist 97
Rutgers Cooperative Extension of Mercer County

Thoughtful planning and attention to the tree’s needs during planting are the first two steps toward ensuring its long term survival. When properly selected for a site and planted, the following will help it thrive.

SUPPORT

Often, additional support is not necessary for newly planted trees. Support tall or top heavy trees only to prevent strong winds from whipping them back and forth and snapping newly formed roots. Two methods are:

Staking: Tree stakes should extend about 12" into the solid ground in the base of the tree planting pit. The above-ground portion of the stake should be about 2/3 the height of the tree. Therefore the height of the stake should be equal to 2/3 the tree height plus the depth of the rootball plus 12 inches.

For tall trees with branches starting at 3 feet or higher, two poles, as thick as or thicker than the tree, are placed in the ground on opposite edges of the planting hole and perpendicular to the prevailing winds. Connect each pole to the tree with a plastic strap or covered wire. The wire must be covered with cut sections of sturdy garden or reinforced drainage hose to prevent damage to the trunk.

Guying: Place three short (18") stakes in the ground in a triangle equidistant from the trunk of low-branched trees and run heavy cord or covered wire from the stakes to the bottom branches. Large trees benefit from having a "deadman," such as a small log or concrete block, buried and attached to one wire to prevent the tree from pivoting or turning in the ground. Tie flagging tape or a cloth strip on each wire to prevent anyone from tripping over them.

In both cases, leave a little slack in the support wires to allow some movement during strong winds. Check the wire or straps every six months to be sure they are still attached securely, but are not too tight. Remove the stakes and wire after one year to prevent girdling of the trunk.

WRAPPING

Wrapping has been determined by research to be unnecessary. It does not prevent sunscald and frost-cracking of tender bark, invasion by borer insects, and mower or other physical damage. It may actually encourage disease by keeping the bark wet. Sunscald and frost cracking are the result of physical injury to the bark, perhaps during transplanting or transport.

CREATING A SAUCER

The shallow depression created by ridging soil around the edge of the planting pit should also be unnecessary if proper soil loosening and the proper sized hole for the plant were used.

MULCHING

Spread a 2-4 inch layer of organic mulch such as shredded hardwood, wood chips, coarse compost, or licorice root in the area under the tree. Because of the possibility of disease or rodent damage, no mulch should touch the trunk. Mulching helps conserve water, prevent weed growth, moderate soil temperatures, and act as a barrier to lawn mower and string trimmer damage.

WATERING

Water thoroughly. A tree is considered a transplant for at least 2 years and for as long as 10 years, depending on species and speed of recovery, no matter how old it is when planted. Even a tree that is drought tolerant or wet site tolerant when established will not have that tolerance for the first two to four years that it takes to develop a strong root system.

Trees should be watered deeply once a week in warm weather, more frequently in hot, windy weather. Do not water trees daily after the first week. This discourages development of a healthy root system. Trees planted in quick-draining loamy sand or sandy loam soils will need water more often than those in heavier silt loam or clay soils or in soils high in organic matter. Continue watering until the leaves drop in autumn.

It is difficult to give much guidance other than "rule of thumb" information when suggesting how much to water newly planted materials. Variables include the size of the plant and planting pit, the texture of the native soil, the amount of organic matter, the amount of natural rainfall, the type of soil or potting mix in the root ball or container, average daily temperatures, winds, exposure (west and south are more drying than north or east), and size of leaf canopy.

The goals are to keep the soil moist, but not soggy, and never to let the soil dry completely while the plants are becoming established. The "rule-of-thumb" of one 5 gallon bucket of water twice a week in hot weather may be right, or too much, or not enough for a specific tree. Allowing the hose to dribble water slowly into the planting pit to saturate the planting area is acceptable, but the hose must be moved to ensure that water gets to all of the roots. Care must be taken not to drown the tree.

The best time of day to water is morning. On occasion a plant may wilt slightly in the heat of a scorching summer afternoon. If the plant recovers after sunset, its roots probably could not fill the high water demand created by high temperatures, but there was enough water in the soil for it to become turgid again in the evening. Watering in late afternoon may supply more water than the plant can use.

During extended droughts, even old, well-established trees should be watered.

WINTER PROTECTION

Except for mulching, hardy trees don’t need extra winter protection.

PEST CONTROL

Trees stressed by digging and transplanting need all of their leaves in order to manufacture food for growth. Insects further weaken newly-transplanted trees, making them more susceptible to other problems. Check stem/trunk and leaves of shrubs and trees regularly for presence of insects and diseases. Consult experts for control methods. Remove weeds that compete with plants for water and nutrients.

FERTILIZING

Fertilizer is usually not needed until the second year after transplanting. After the first year, the tree will need a source of nutrients. To determine which nutrients are needed, have a soil test run. Using those results, fertilize using slow-release, non-burning organics, a high-nitrogen fertilizer containing slow release nitrogen (such as 10-6-4 50% organic), or water-soluble plant food to supply those nutrients. Apply just beyond the drip line of the tree following the label directions for rate. Do not over-fertilize.

Note: Because of the possibility of overwatering, do not plant annual flowers at the base of a newly planted tree.

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